LED strip lighting is the most versatile lighting product available — but choosing the wrong voltage, brightness, or IP rating is an expensive mistake. This complete buyer’s guide covers everything from 12V vs 24V, lumens per metre, IP ratings, driver sizing, voltage drop, and room-by-room installation advice.
What is LED strip lighting?
LED strip lights (also called LED tape, ribbon light, or flex strip) are flexible circuit boards with LED chips mounted at regular intervals, supplied on a roll. They can be cut to length, bent around corners, and stuck to almost any surface using the adhesive backing.
They’ve become the most versatile lighting product available — used for under-cabinet kitchen lighting, cove and ceiling lighting, staircase edge lighting, TV bias lighting, architectural accents, outdoor landscape lighting, and commercial display lighting.
Unlike a fixed fixture, strip lights let you put light exactly where you need it — along a shelf edge, inside a cabinet, under a step, or around a ceiling recess — without cutting holes or running conduit.
Types of LED strip — which to choose
| Type | Best for | Key feature | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single colour (white) | Task and ambient lighting | Simplest, most efficient | Choose CCT carefully — can’t change after install |
| Tunable white (CCT) | Living rooms, bedrooms | Adjustable warm to cool white | Needs 2-channel driver or smart controller |
| RGB | Accent and entertainment | 16 million colours | Colour mixing at distance — visible seams up close |
| RGBW | Accent + white light needed | RGB plus dedicated white chip | Better white quality than RGB alone |
| RGBWW / RGBCCT | Premium installs | Full colour + tunable white | Most expensive — needs smart controller |
| High-density / COB | Visible runs, cove lighting | No visible dots — seamless light | COB (chip-on-board) gives linear continuous light |
| Neon flex | Signage, curves | Diffused neon-like appearance | Not cuttable at short intervals — check cut points |
How bright? Lumens per metre explained
LED strip brightness is measured in lumens per metre (lm/m). This is the number you need to plan your lighting — not watts per metre.
| Lumens per metre | Brightness level | Best applications |
|---|---|---|
| 200–400 lm/m | Low — accent only | Stair edge lights, display cabinet, TV bias |
| 400–700 lm/m | Medium — decorative/ambient | Cove lighting, bedroom accent, shelf lighting |
| 700–1,000 lm/m | Good — ambient lighting | Cove main light, kitchen ambient, living room |
| 1,000–1,500 lm/m | High — task capable | Under-cabinet task lighting, retail display |
| 1,500+ lm/m | Very high — commercial | Replacing fluorescent, workshop, commercial |
Quick rule for under-cabinet kitchen lighting: aim for 400–600 lm/m minimum. For worktop task lighting that replaces a dedicated fixture, target 800–1,000 lm/m.
Calculate lumens and power for your strip run →12V vs 24V — which voltage system?
This is the most important technical decision when specifying LED strip. Both voltages are safe low-voltage DC systems, but they behave very differently over distance.
| Property | 12V strip | 24V strip | Winner |
|---|---|---|---|
| Max run length before voltage drop | 3–5 metres | 7–10 metres | 24V |
| Voltage drop sensitivity | High — noticeable dimming at end of run | Low — more forgiving | 24V |
| Cable size required | Larger for same current | Smaller cable, same power | 24V |
| Availability | Very widely available | Widely available | Equal |
| Smart controller choice | Large selection | Good selection | 12V (marginally) |
| Colour consistency over run | Can vary at run end | More consistent | 24V |
Colour temperature and CRI for LED strip
LED strips are available in a wide range of colour temperatures. Choose based on the room and application:
| CCT | Appearance | Best rooms | Avoid in |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2700K | Warm white — incandescent-like | Bedroom, living room, restaurant | Kitchens (makes food look yellow) |
| 3000K | Warm white — LED standard | Kitchen, living room, hospitality | Works almost everywhere |
| 3500K | Neutral warm | Retail, open plan offices | Residential bedrooms |
| 4000K | Neutral white | Kitchen task, bathrooms, offices | Bedrooms, romantic settings |
| 6500K | Daylight / cool white | Garages, workshops, display | Living areas — too clinical |
CRI — why it matters for strip lights
CRI (Colour Rendering Index) measures how accurately the light renders colours compared to natural daylight. For LED strips:
- CRI 80 — standard, fine for accent and decorative use
- CRI 90+ — recommended for kitchens, living areas, anywhere food or skin tones matter
- CRI 95+ — retail, art display, photography applications
The price difference between CRI 80 and CRI 90 strip is small — always specify CRI 90+ for visible lighting in living spaces.
IP rating — indoor vs outdoor LED strip
| IP rating | Protection | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| IP20 | No moisture protection | Dry indoor locations only | Cove, under cabinet, display cabinets |
| IP44 | Splash proof | Bathrooms (not direct shower) | Suitable for Zone 2 bathroom areas |
| IP65 | Dust tight + water jets | Kitchens, covered outdoor | Silicone sleeve — some light loss |
| IP67 | Temporary immersion | Outdoor ground level, decking | Fully encapsulated in resin |
| IP68 | Continuous immersion | Ponds, underwater features | Specialist product — high cost |
Power supplies and driver sizing
Every LED strip installation needs a constant-voltage LED driver (power supply). The driver converts mains AC to the correct DC voltage (12V or 24V) and must be correctly sized for the load.
Sizing your power supply
Never run a driver at 100% of its rated wattage. Load it to a maximum of 80% — this extends the driver’s life and prevents overheating.
Example: 14.4W/m strip, 5 metre run
Load = 14.4 × 5 = 72W
Driver needed = 72 ÷ 0.80 = 90W minimum → buy a 100W driver
| Strip power (W/m) | Run length | Total load | Driver size (at 80%) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 9.6W/m (24V) | 5m | 48W | 60W driver |
| 14.4W/m (24V) | 5m | 72W | 100W driver |
| 14.4W/m (24V) | 10m | 144W | 2× 100W drivers |
| 19.2W/m (24V) | 5m | 96W | 120W driver |
| 24W/m (24V) | 5m | 120W | 150W driver |
Voltage drop — the most common installation mistake
Voltage drop is the single biggest cause of failed LED strip installations. It occurs because the resistance of the copper conductors in the strip causes the voltage to fall along the run — the end of the strip is dimmer than the start.
How much voltage drop is acceptable?
Maximum 3% voltage drop from the driver output to the end of the strip. On a 24V system, that’s 0.72V maximum. On a 12V system, 0.36V maximum — which is why 12V strips are so much more sensitive to run length.
Solutions for voltage drop
- Use 24V instead of 12V — halves the current, quarters the voltage drop
- Feed from both ends — connect the driver to both the start and end of the strip using parallel cables
- Use larger cable — increase cable cross-section from 0.75mm² to 1.5mm² or 2.5mm²
- Split into shorter runs — use multiple drivers with shorter runs from each
- Centre feed — place the driver at the midpoint of the run, halving the effective length in each direction
Dimming and smart control
LED strip lights can be dimmed in several ways, depending on your driver and control system:
| Control type | How it works | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Trailing-edge (TRIAC) dimmer | Phase-cut dimming — cheapest option | Single-colour simple installs |
| 0-10V / PWM dimmer | Signal wire controls dim level | Commercial and architectural |
| DALI controller | Digital addressable — scene control | Commercial, multi-zone |
| Smart (WiFi/Bluetooth) | App or voice control | Residential, RGB/tunable white |
| RF remote controller | Radio frequency remote | Simple residential RGB |
Installation — step by step
Applications — room by room
Under-cabinet kitchen lighting
The most popular LED strip application. Mount at the front of the upper cabinet, facing downward onto the worktop. Use IP20 strip in a slim aluminium profile with a frosted diffuser. Specify 3000K–4000K at CRI 90+ for accurate food colours. Target 400–600 lm/m minimum — higher for a dedicated task light.
Cove and ceiling lighting
Indirect lighting bounced off the ceiling from a recessed ledge or cove. Requires high-output strip — 700–1,000 lm/m minimum — because light is lost in the bounce. The ceiling needs to be white or near-white for efficiency. Use COB strip to avoid dot patterns on the ceiling. Set the cove lip at least 100mm deep to hide the strip from view.
Staircase lighting
LED strip along the front edge of each step (riser or tread edge) creates a dramatic safety-lit staircase. Use IP44 if the stairs are near the front door where moisture could be an issue. Motion sensor control is ideal — lights activate as you approach. 200–400 lm/m is sufficient for step marking; it should not be the primary stair lighting.
TV bias lighting
Strip behind the TV reduces eye strain and improves perceived contrast. Specify 6500K to match screen colour temperature, or use an Ambilight-style controller that matches screen colours in real time. Target 10% of screen luminance for the bias light — typically 200–300 lm/m at low brightness.
Outdoor landscape and garden
Use IP67 strip minimum. 24V systems are preferred for longer outdoor runs. Waterproof connectors at all joints. Keep drivers in weatherproof enclosures rated IP65 or better. For path edge lighting, bury-rated IP68 strip in an aluminium channel.
Frequently asked questions
How long can an LED strip run be?
The maximum practical run from a single feed point depends on voltage and strip power. As a rule of thumb: 12V strips up to 3–5 metres, 24V strips up to 7–10 metres. Beyond these distances, voltage drop causes visible dimming at the far end. Use multiple driver feed points or a 48V system for longer runs.
Can LED strips be cut?
Yes — but only at the marked cut points, typically every 25mm, 50mm, or 100mm depending on the strip. Cutting anywhere else breaks the circuit. The cut mark is usually indicated by a scissor symbol or a dotted line between LEDs.
Do LED strips get hot?
LED strips generate some heat — mainly from the driver circuitry. High-density strips (14W/m+) generate enough heat to reduce LED life if not managed. Always install high-power strips in aluminium profiles which act as heat sinks. Never coil or bunch strips — heat build-up will cause early failure.
What’s the difference between LED strip and LED tape?
Nothing — they’re the same product. LED strip, LED tape, ribbon light, and flex strip all refer to the flexible PCB with LED chips. The terminology varies by country and manufacturer.
Can I connect two strips together?
Yes, using solderless strip connectors or by soldering. Ensure the total combined length stays within the voltage drop limit for your system. If connecting to extend a run, the combined wattage must stay within the driver’s rated capacity (at 80% loading).